For the most part, the Shops at Clearfork is a “luxury” shopping center, and one of its key restaurants, B&B Butchers, fits that indulgent bill.
Sure, you could there for a burger or a deli sandwich at lunch, if you want to pay a price that’s only in the teens. Or you could eat even more inexpensively, albeit for smaller portions, at the weekday “Booze & Bites Social Hour.”
But if you’ve got the money and appetite for it, you can also drop upward of $200 on a steak from the “Cellar Cuts” portion of the dinner menu, which focuses on high-quality, high-end steaks of “rare, exclusive and limited availability.”
Or you could just pay for a $120 sandwich.
This is not just any sandwich. It’s the A5 Wagyu Katsu Sando, available beginning next week. It’s inspired by a New York restaurant’s Wagyu steak sandwich, and the B&B one is a bargain compared with that one.
Wagyu beef has become a pretty common item on restaurant menus, showing up in burgers and meatloafs.. But A5 Wagyu, which is available in other B&B dishes, is pretty special, rare and imported at only nine restaurants in the United States. Star-Telegram contributor Courtney Dabney, who has had A5 Wagyu beef in Kobe, Japan, says that it really does melt in your mouth.
According to the Bloomberg article about the New York sandwich (which is part of a trend that originated in Tokyo), “Officially, the title refers to a specific breed of purebred Japanese cattle. (The literal translation of wagyu is ‘Japanese cow.’) Some American breeds are awarded the name, but they’re not 100 percent pure; they need only have 46.875 percent pure blood, as defined by the USDA.”
B&B says its sandwich uses “truly all Japanese ingredients”: A5 Japanese Wagyu ribeye that’s panko-crusted, deep-fried and served on toasted, buttered Japanese white “Hotel Bread” that is lightly spread with a house-made Japanese tonkatsu barbecue sauce. The “Katsu” part of the name comes from the crusting/frying process; you can probably guess that “Sando” is a Japanese term for sandwich.
It’s then sliced into three section without crust along with zucchini fries (a side item that raised some doubts, considering that it’s part of a $120 plate) and “a lemon citrus ponzu mist.”
The sandwich is already available at B&B’s Houston location, earning praise, which may be too meager a word, from Houstonia magazine, which described it as a “mythical” sandwich and once again used the “melt in your mouth” description.
If you’re still wondering about a $120 sandwich, Houstonia writer Mai Pham calls the Wagyu Sando “The one that die-hard foodies (myself included) salivated over, dreaming of the day when we could finally taste the real thing. I’d seen pictures of it, fawned over videos of it, and read about how it had finally made it to cities like Los Angeles and New York.”
It has also been called “The Holy Grail of Steak Sandwiches.”
The sandwich will debut next week as an off-menu item. It will become a permanent menu item after DFW Restaurant Week (which at most restaurants is actually weeks.)
B&B Butchers is at 5212 Marathon Ave. in Fort Worth., https://bbbutchers.com
Star-Telegram correspondent Courtney Dabney contributed to this report.